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Reaching

1. Jib. Fairleads: should be moved outboard as the angle of the boat to the wind increases. They should usually be at the outboard end of the track. Thereafter, in light winds, the crew may hold the jib sheet beyond the gunwale. Whisker pole: may be carried on the broadest of reaches but, if in doubt it is usually better not to.

2. Shrouds: For all reaches move the leeward shroud all the way forward. In flat water (when the rig will not bounce) the windward shroud may also be eased forward.

3. Mainsail. Mast rotator: leave in normal position for close reaching or over-rotate when the wind is on or aft the beam.

Clew Outhaul: ease to 15cm depth between boom and sail, less in light winds and more in waves

Boom vang: tight enough to maintain a straight leech, but not so tight as to flatten the sail unless the wind strength requires it.

Cunningham: eased, wrinkles are not a problem.

Traveler position: for close reaching the traveler may be played, if not it should be positioned under the average boom position.  For broader reaching it should be at the end of the track.

Mainsheet tension: if using the traveler for adjustment the sheet controls leech tension, otherwise it simply controls sail angles.

4. Technique. Daggerboard half way up: further up the broader the reach and the stronger the wind. In the lightest winds keep weight well forward and heel to leeward to lift the chine and reduce drag. In all other winds sail upright. Look for gusts and lulls: bear away in gusts to stay in them longer and luff in the lulls to increase speed and head towards the next gust. In very strong gusts bear away, ease sails and hike hard as they hit. Fore and aft weight positions are as for beating unless planing is possible, then having weight slightly aft of normal to help planing is good In the strongest winds the crew may have one foot under the helmsman’s toe strap. Play the sails constantly, the mainsail by using the main sheet unless the reach is very close.

Practice coordinating tiller and sail changes so that course, jib and mainsail changes occur smoothly, together and continuously. To promote planing wait for a gust, luff to meet it whilst playing the sails and hike out and slightly aft. When planing, bear away to compensate for ground made to windward.

Use waves: steer to stay on the ‘downhill’ side of a wave and avoid sailing ‘uphill’. If in doubt, steer for the calmest water. One ‘pump’ per wave or gust is permitted to help promote planing.

5. Roll Gybing

NOTE: as with tacking, the mast may move from the vertical only once.

a.  Crew ensures dagger board is below the swinging arc of the vang and uncleats the jib.

b.  Crew rolls the boat to weather to make the boat bear away towards the gibe. Helmsman lets the rudder follow the course the boat takes. The sails are eased as the boat bears away.

c.  When the mainsail begins to back, the helmsman catches the mainsheet and pulls the sail across the boat to the new leeward side.

d.  As the sail moves the rudder is returned admidships. it should be there when the sail’s power is felt on the new tack.

e.  When the sail has finished crossing, the boat is smoothly returned to an upright position.

f.  When the new course is reached, the sails are trimmed accordingly and the shrouds adjusted.

6. Strong Wind Gybing

There are two keys to success in gybing in very strong winds. Firstly, begin the maneuver when the boat is going its fastest. This is because the apparent wind felt when the sails are on the new tack is relatively at its least. Secondly, the boat should be on a run when the wind pressures the sail on the new tack This is achieved by the helmsman correcting the boat’s course in the short moments when the boom crosses the boat and he is crossing to the new windward side. Roll gybes should not be tried in very strong winds. Instead, the boat should be kept as level and stable as possible throughout the maneuver .

Running

1. Jib. Whisker pole: used.

Head of sail: when the whisker pole is used the top furling fitting does not always swivel. Mast should be de-rotated and sheet tensioned to correct the situation.

Fairlead position: outboard as far as possible.

Sheet tension: tighter the broader the run and harden if sailing by-the-lee.

Jib tack fitting: may be turned using the furling line to ensure the base of the sail forms a fair shape.

2. Shrouds. In light winds and flat water both shrouds should be positioned at the forward end of their tracks. In stronger winds only the leeward shroud should be moved. In very strong winds it can be wiser not to adjust the shrouds at all.

3. Mainsail. Mast rotator: always over-rotated.

Clew outhaul: not very important: it may be set as for beating.

Boom vang: tensioned just enough to keep the leech straight. In strong winds twist should be avoided in the mainsail to reduce the possibility of rolling.

Cunningham: of little importance: it may be set as for beating.

Traveler position: as far to leeward as possible.

Main sheet tension: minimal, sail can rest against the shroud.

4. Technique.  Daggerboard position: resting on the inside lip of the casing in light winds, otherwise further down as the wind increases to a maximum of a third of the way down in very strong winds. In most winds a Tasar or be sailed either directly downwind or ‘tacked downwind’ at about 20 degrees off the downwind course with little difference in outcome. In marginal planing ‘tacking’ can be faster, particularly when waves are well used to promote early surfing. Weight should be spread laterally across the boat to maintain stability: helm and crew can often sit on opposite side decks. In light to medium winds weight should be positioned fore and aft to ensure the transom is only just touching the water. In planing winds weight is moved aft, and in the strongest winds the crew will be needed behind the thwart.

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